Craftwork and Trends
The high jewelry year officially starts with the fair event Vicenzaoro, annually taking place in the second half of January in Northern Italy. Even this time it was an amazing journey of discovery how true jewelry craftsmanship beautifully embraces the accessory trends of the fashion world’s runways.
‘Kitschy’ gemstones
Bright, lively colors and opulent shapes dominated many a catwalk and the jewelry designs seen there for spring/summer 2025. At Saint Laurent, Valentino and Giorgio Armani, the Baroque era continues with its maximalist, lavish aesthetic.
How adorable to adopt this theme in the high jewelry world. And as jewels are more and more seen as ‘heirlooms’, people are ready to invest in such very special pieces.
Which woman is not dreaming of an ensemble of a pendant in white gold enriched with sparkling dieamonds and ‘steeling- the-show’ dark red rubies and pink tourmalines and matching earrings!
Bright, lively colors and opulent shapes dominated many a catwalk and the jewelry designs seen there for spring/summer 2025. At Saint Laurent, Valentino and Giorgio Armani, the Baroque era continues with its maximalist, lavish aesthetic.
How adorable to adopt this theme in the high jewelry world. And as jewels are more and more seen as ‘heirlooms’, people are ready to invest in such very special pieces.
Which woman is not dreaming of an ensemble of a pendant in white gold enriched with sparkling dieamonds and ‘steeling- the-show’ dark red rubies and pink tourmalines and matching earrings!
Pearls, pearls, pearls
As to see in the spring collections of Chanel, Chloé or Bottega Veneta – pearls are having a moment. The major houses offers the trend with earings, pendants and cuffs all decorated with pretty pearls.
High jewelry brands exhibiting at Vicenzaoro truly interpret the theme with wonderful compositions. Tender papillons of gold enriched with diamonds and arranged with Akoya pearls seduce the visitor.
Although this jewelry trend is having been around for decades, today it experiences a larger explosion as celebrities like Harry Styles turn pearl necklaces into a genderless accessory. So even the street-style crowd started celebrating this jewelry piece.
And maybe you find some sleek stud earrings in your jewelry box – why not stacking them up the ear?
Sculptural forms
In contrast to opulism – minimalism. Single statement jewels were showcased on the spring 2025 runways as of Balmain and Loewe. All of them of a reduced design and ‘oversized’.
Me personally, I prefer sculptural jewelry pieces of a more ‘quiet’ size, elegant and sophisticated. One of my favorites means a radiant ring of white gold with bangles impressingly inlaid with diamonds – gemstones which will never leave the stage.
Concerning jewelry, people are more and more interested to spend on little luxuries that allow them to express themselves, to treat themselves to feel good. This trend of course met the designs highlighted at Vicenzaoro.
And there I discovered a beautiful pair of earrings of the shape of chased wings and set with dazzling diamonds and which allows the perfect moment.
Gold beautifully ‘mixed’
Two tones or even more – maybe you have been told not to mix gold and silver jewelry as considered as a stylish faux pas.
But why not enrich your jewelry box with pieces with a mélange of different colors of gold of 18 carat? Mokume Gane is a traditional Japanese metalworking technique creating wood-like grain patterns and which I detected oustandingly incorporated into exclusive commitment and promise rings.
Retro necklaces
Back into the 60s and 70s. Valentino, Isabel Marant and Elie Saab bring the Boho-style into the here and now with crocheted dresses, psychodelic prints and wild patterns.
One new and such impressing way to express this retro-renaissance in jewelry I get to know at Vicenzaor are designs made of silver yarns, knitted or crocheted by hand. The wow effect seems guaranteed.
