A Seaside Road Trip
Little adventures by the sea. Spending time in beautiful Nordic regions. What an appealing combination this can be I experienced during a two-country tour along the Øresund, which can even be completed relaxed in only one day.
The Øresund, or ‘the Sound’, means the strait between Zealand in Denmark and Scania in Sweden, and connects the Baltic Sea with the North Sea. For our exploration tour we mainly chose historical sites in Denmark as well as in Sweden to learn more about the two countries’, even common and shared, history. Not our choice? – The stormy weather on both sides of the Atlantic which awaited us on this day and perhaps made our journey even more fascinating.
Starting point: Copenhagen
Many a city is referred to as ‘the Venice of the North’ like Stockholm, Amsterdam, Hamburg or Brügge. For me, Denmark’s capital Copenhagen in particular deserves this designation – the start of my tour.
How strongly the city and its flair is characterized by water demonstrate the numerous canals that crisscross the cityscape and the many bridges that connect the districts. Especially the charming old harbor district Nyhavn with its colorful rows of houses, restaurants and cafe bars enriches the everyday life of Copenhagen’s inhabitants and its visitors.
And of course the immediate proximity to the sea further emphasis the maritime atmosphere.
Here right at the harbor’s exit, on the quay Langelinje, lies one of the most special sights of Copenhagen, the Little Mermaid or ‘Den Lille Havfrue’. The delightful bronze figure was unveiled in 1913 as a gift of Carl Jacobsen to the city and is based on a fairy tale by Hans Christian Andersen. And the mermaid’s gaze from the rock? Onto the Sound, our itinerary.
On the road
Immediatley after having left Copenhagen heading north, the bays and beaches of the Øresund soon came into view.
The drive here took us through the posh, rich suburbs of Copenhagen. Here, one villa follows the other, each of them with its own private access to the beach.
The drive here took us through the posh, rich suburbs of Copenhagen. Here, one villa follows the other, each of them with its own private access to the beach.
At the northern tip of Zealand
The first stop on our itinerary was the picturesque little town of Helsingør, located at the narrowest point of the Øresund, as already described the strait between Zealand and Scania.
Exploring the city and its surroundings, you are in the middle of a piece of Danish history. When you engage with its centuries-long political and economic importance due to Its geographical location as I did when continuing my tour, you will understand its development from a small fishing village to a regular market town.
Helsingør may even call one of the best-preserved historic centers of Europe its own. Thus particularly appealing I found its beautiful solid brick houses, small squares and alleys, and its charming old harbor district which invites to stay.
Kronborg Slot – Hamlet’s homeland
Directly adjacent to the city of Helsingør in its north, situated on a small peninsula, lies Kronborg Castle. Located on a strategically important site commanding the Øresund, it means a immense symbolic value to the Danish people. Up to the 18th century Kronborg Castle played a key role in the history in of Northern Europe. The building even inspired Shakespeare to write and is world-famous as the setting of his drama work ‘Hamlet’ through which it has become immortalized.
It all dates back to 1420 when Eric of Pomerania built the first castle named ‘Krogen’ at this unique place. In the 15th century King Frederik II began the construction of this outstanding Renaissance building, from then on known as Kronborg Castle. After the disastrous fire of 1629 it was reconstructed almost as before.
In 2000 the castle was added the UNESCO list of world heritage sites.
Thanks to its mighty fortification, from 1429 to 1857 Denmark controlled the gateway to the Baltic Sea and its shipping. Around 1,8 million ships passed through the Sound in this period and all of them had to pay a toll at Kronborg Castle. Through this kind of trade that time Denmark gained immense power.In 1785 the military moved there. New defense installations as cannons were erected. Today, when the royal yacht passes the castle, gun salutes are still fired from there.
As for its strength as a fortress, Kronborg Castle was and is admired for its beauty.
The building itself is a Renaissance one, with four wings surrounding a spacious courtyard. Towers and spires highlight the front walls. The facades have been constructed of bright sandstone and are characterized by horizontal bands, extensively and richly decorated with ornaments.
The outside’s richness continous in the interior of the building. Large halls, decorated with magnificent tapestries, numerous stone arches, cobblestone-covered walkways transport you to another era.
The outside’s richness continous in the interior of the building. Large halls, decorated with magnificent tapestries, numerous stone arches, cobblestone-covered walkways transport you to another era.Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.
From the roofs of the castle you may enjoy a wonderful view over and impressions of the surrounding sea from everywhere. The gloomy sky as a backdrop including!
From Helsingør to Helsingborg
Back in Helsingør and its port, we were directed to the city’s ship landing stage. There we boarded the ferry with which we should cross the Øresund.
This getaway about the sea was impressive, the dimensions of the ferry something I had not experienced before.
And in the distance already visible: the skyline of Helsingborg, the twin city of Helsingør and only four kilometers away. Both towns are some of the oldest Nordic ones and united by their shared history. In the past they acted as guardians of the sound, today they represent one auf the most important transport arteries between Sweden and Denmark.
The charm of Swedish cities
Our first city break on the Swedish side was Lund, the so-called student city and cultural center of southern Sweden.
Lund particularly fascinated me with the medieval charm of its buildings which almost has something mystical about it. Let me begin with Lund Cathedral in the city’s center.
Its construction began in 1080. In 1123, the work on the high altar and the church’s crypt was completed. The main building was finally consecrated in 1145.
The 55-meter-high towers of the cathedral majestically rise into the sky. The arched windows of the facade are typical of Romanesque architecture.
Its construction began in 1080. In 1123, the work on the high altar and the church’s crypt was completed. The main building was finally consecrated in 1145.
The 55-meter-high towers of the cathedral majestically rise into the sky. The arched windows of the facade are typical of Romanesque architecture.
Close to the cathedral lies Kungshuset. The residence was built in 1584 for Kind Frederik II, when Lund was still a Danish city. After the peace of Roskilde in 1658, when the city ultimately became Swedish, the new University of Lund was established there. The headquarters of Lund University is Universitetshuset, which was designed by the architect Hugo Zettervall in the 1880s. The building is classically decorated, with four sphinxes on the roof,
The cathedral’s architecture also shapes the cityscape of the old town of Lund. This part impresses with its half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets and exudes a homely flair.
The cathedral’s architecture also shapes the cityscape of the old town of Lund. This part impresses with its half-timbered houses and cobblestone streets and exudes a homely flair.
Malmö, the capital city of Scania
The next highlight of my trip awaits me in the coastal city of Malmö. It too convinces me with the charming parts and buildings of its old town.
Malmö’s imposing city hall or Rådhuset was built in the 1540s. The Dutch Renaissance cladding of the building as you can see today was added in 1864. In front of the Rådhuset you see the one of the largest market squares in Scandinavia, the so-called Stortorget.
For over 300 years Residenset, the Kings House, has been the building where Scania has been ruled from. It dates from the late 1500s and was rebuilt in the 1700s with Rococo style decoration around its windows. In 1914, the three Nordic kings – Gustav V of Sweden, Haakon VII of Norway and his brother Christian X of Denmark met there to discuss how to react to the outbreak of the First War and how to maintain their neutrality.
Even Apotecet Lejonet – the ‘Lion Pharmacy’ – surprises with its history as well as its construction method and beautiful interior.
There has been a pharmacy on this site since 1571. The building of today dates back to 1897 and was then one of Europe’s largest ones. As in the 18th and 19th centuries did not exist that many pharmacies in Sweden, it was decided that each pharmacy would be named after an animal.
The house’s interior is of Art Nouveau style, with carved wooden shelves and vintage medicine bottles. The exterior of the building is decorated with tiles.
Stortorget, laid out around 1540, is the largest square in Malmö, covering an area of approximately 2.500 square meters. The square is adorned with an ornate fountain, the so-called ‘anniversary fountain‘. It was installed in the 1960s to mark the city’s 600th anniversary and represents typical buildings and activities from the city’s development history.
Øresundsbron – return to Denmark
And finally the last leg of my day trip and no less impressive: the crossing drive across the Øresund Bridge.
With a length of 16 kilometers, it represents the world’s longest cable-stayed bridge for combined road and rail traffic. Opened in July 2000, the project created a fixed link between Malmö and Copenhagen. And this bridge means one of the largest engineering structures in Europe and spans the Øresund as a widely visible landmark.
What a great idea this seaside road trip through these two Scandinavian countries was!
